During our first season with the boat we had a couple of electrical problems. Investigating these issues brought the overall horrible condition of the boat's electrical system into focus.Dasein suffered from 40 years of neglect and bad practice. The wiring and connections were generally heavily corroded, and much of the newer wiring was jury rigged, consisted of inferior materials, and often completely bypassing the fuse panel. The deeper I dug, the more evident it became that we were simply going to need to gut the old system and start anew.

Ideas: Inspected and Discarded

I agonized over the initiial planning stages for much too long. I was trying to balance my desire to "do the project right" with my budgetary constraints and my intention to keep the system moderately simple, while still being full-featured.

I started the planning by going back and carefully rereading the entire electrical section of Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual. I then spent some time making a list of features I wanted to include, and giving some general thought to the overall workings and general structure of the system, including things like number of required circuits, basic charging philosophy, and battery bank layout. The next step was to "work the numbers" to calculate load ratings, voltage drops, and the like.

At this point I had a rough schematic, several lists, and a couple of pages of calculations. My next step was to sit down with a stack of catalogs, my internet connection, and lots of sharp pencils with fresh erasers—and hammer out the details so that I could place my order(s) for materials.

System Overview

Ultimately I settled on a system based on a 200 Ah house bank and a single starting battery, which would be charged off my standard 55 amp alternator using a Xantrex Pathmaker battery combiner (which I chose because of its individually adjustable cut-in and cut-out voltages and its remote panel). I would use a single on-off battery switch for the starting battery, and a 100 amp breaker as a switch for the house bank.

Wiring would be standardized at 14 gauge for primary wire runs, and 2 guage for all battery cable applications. All connections would be made using adhesive-lined heat-shrink crimp terminals. Distribution would be through an 8 breaker panel, with the plan to add a supplementary 3 breaker panel in the future if necessary for radar or grey water sump applications. Space for this panel would be reserved during layout of the main integrated panel. Distribution would be organized as follows:

• Cabin Lights—2 reading lights in v-berth; 1 light in head; 2 reading lights in main saloon; 1 or 2 utility lights in the saloon
• Running Lights
• Steaming Light
• Anchor Light
• VHF
• Instruments—Depth; Speed Log; GPS; Compass Light
• Tiller Pilot
• Accessory Panel—Inverter; 12-volt outlet; Stereo

The main panel location would be in the same location as the original. I intended to remove the old fuse panel and spice rack, replacing it with a single integrated electrical panel unit which would house the battery switch, house bank breaker, distribution panel, bilge pump switch, and Pathmaker remote. Additionally, I planned an "Accessory subpanel" to be located just forward of the galley on the starboard side, which would house the 150 watt inverter, a 12 volt cigarette lighter style outlet, and stereo.